This interview is with Susan Ankersen, perfumer at Susan James Fragrances LLC.

Susan Ankersen, perfumer, Susan James Fragrances LLC

As a fragrance expert, can you tell us about your journey into the world of scents and what sparked your passion for perfumery?

I have always been mesmerized by fragrances, and wore fragrance from an early age. As a 15-year-old girl, I wore YSL Kouros! I have a keen recollection of what scent people are wearing and have, for many years, matched friends and family with a fragrance.

What was the pivotal moment in your career that made you realize the power of fragrance in creating lasting memories?

On a trip to the Middle East in 2009, I purchased several perfumes in Damascus and Dubai that were very unusual to me. One became my signature scent for several years and brought me back to the wonderful time I had traveling. This powerful scent memory planted the seed for my work today, when I realized scent wasn’t just something to wear that smelled nice – but could also be a time capsule and emotional capsule. A fragrance could unlock emotions, names of long-forgotten classmates, and the smallest details I thought I’d forgotten would reappear. This realization became the foundation of my olfactory art for remembering anything from an art exhibit to a milestone celebration.

You’ve mentioned the importance of wedding day perfumes. Can you share a personal story of how you’ve helped a bride choose the perfect scent for her special day?

We had an old family friend, with a son getting married, who we shared our Note Box with. The couple went through our process and very quickly realized they were interested in having two instead of a single fragrance. It was our pleasure to offer that as a solution, as our studio prides itself on being flexible with our personalized packages. This interaction also allowed us to understand the importance of offering a range of fragrance families that are not typically gender-specific. In the end, we allowed her to have not only a unique personal fragrance but also something special together from going through the process of choosing their signature wedding scent.

Many people struggle with selecting the right fragrance. What’s your process for helping someone find their signature scent?

We offer our Note Box (often called a Discovery Set) that comes with an 8-day program for uncovering the nuances and properties associated with our premium perfumes. The box includes 8 custom blotter cards where customers can write their notes associated with each perfume. We invite them to wear the fragrance all day, during various activities. Our perfumes are designed specially for the rigors of a wedding day. Beyond the technical aspects of being a long-lasting, quality perfume, the formulas are original and different from anything commercially available.

In your experience, how has the fragrance industry evolved in recent years, and what trends do you see emerging?

In recent years, since the GLP-1 arrival, many people are now choosing sweeter fragrances to satisfy their “sweet tooth.” I see that gourmand trend continuing with various other, perhaps savory notes added too, like matcha tea and nutty notes. I am also continuing to see

You’ve created custom perfumes for special occasions. Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a bespoke fragrance?

I first get to know the person: what notes they love, what other perfumes they have worn, do they have any sentimental materials they would like to add – anything from specific regions or childhood memories. What season is their special occasion? Will it be hot and humid or cold and dry? A perfume projects differently in different climates. Then I will make up 3-4 mods, and the client will try those for a period of time and uncover how the scent wears on them. They might like the fragrance sweeter, or spicier, or with more jasmine, etc. We typically do 2-3 more trials, with the final pick being batched for a full-size perfume. I then keep the formula vaulted, should the client want to have another batch made.

Scent has a powerful connection to memory. Can you share an instance where a particular fragrance unexpectedly transported you back in time?

I used to wear Angel by Mugler in the ’90s and just recently got a whiff of it on someone passing by at a restaurant. I have not smelled that fragrance for probably a decade, and I was instantly brought back to the office I worked at, almost 30 years ago – the colleagues (and everyone’s names) and the UPS guy Oscar, who loved that perfume and got flirty every time I wore it.

With your expertise in fragrance, how do you approach scenting different spaces, from homes to businesses, to create the desired atmosphere?

When I scent different spaces, I always start with the atmosphere we want to create. For businesses, I keep the scent-scapes light and approachable so everyone can enjoy them. Heavy or polarizing notes can be distracting – especially in a workspace, so I usually go for fresh and cozy combinations, like subtle green notes that feel clean and uplifting, paired with something comforting like soft vanilla.

When I work with real estate brokers to design their signature scent, there’s actually a strong link between how “comforting” a new home smells and how quickly it sells. A gentle, welcoming fragrance helps potential buyers imagine themselves living there. The scent becomes part of the emotional impression they take with them after a showing. Often it’s something they can’t quite put their finger on, other than it felt homey or cozy.

For me, the goal is always the same, whether it’s a private home or a business: scent should feel like an invisible layer of something “ahhh” pleasurable and not stand out too much – so that when you have fresh flowers or perhaps scented candles, it all complements each other. Something that makes people relax, breathe a little deeper, and connect more fully with the space and maybe even themselves.

Looking ahead, what’s your vision for the future of personalized fragrances, and how do you see technology playing a role in this evolution?

With everything moving faster and faster—swipe, scroll online—and being in our heads more than outside walking and stopping to smell the roses, I see all of us craving something tangible and more personal. A scent that can pull us back into the moment and our body—a single inhale of a perfume can do that, take us back to when we first smelled it. With so much in our lives becoming less personal through AI, Zooms, and DMs, I believe the opposite will become more valuable: personal experiences. Especially around milestone celebrations like weddings or anniversaries, people don’t want something generic generated in a few clicks. They want something that feels crafted, meaningful, and lasting—made for them and not fast fashion. There is also the “branded” aspect of scent; a signature scent can make a hotel lobby feel comforting, a wedding unforgettable, or a spa more luxurious.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Is there anything else you’d like to add?

Of all our senses, our sense of smell is our most primal. It bypasses logic and goes straight to emotion and memory, which is why one breath can bring back an entire chapter of our lives. I’m glad to see there’s been more focus on this in recent years, because it means people are starting to understand just how powerful scent really is for our well-being, remembering passed loved ones to the feel of walking down the aisle on your anniversary. Scent can also help in commerce, like when a gas station sells 35% more coffee if they pump the scent of fresh-brewed coffee at the pumps 🙂